Valentine’s Day

This term, we had organized midterm exams. One hour for each class Wednesday- Friday. 12 tests. All of the students were fresh and ready for Sasha’s Chemistry tests in the first and second time slots, but by the time it came to Ryan’s math test in the 12^th time slot there was a noticeable dip in preparation.  

After Ryan finished his Thursday exam, we decided to go to the beach. When we woke that morning, it looked like the perfect day for the beach but as the day went on there was more and more rain. Ryan finished his exam, and it just rained harder. We waited and the rain got worse.

We decided to go for it anyway.

We donned our raincoats and umbrella (yes, both were necessary), said goodbye to the cats, and walked out to where it was raining Elephants and Whales. The roads turned to rivers, and we were soaked in minutes even through the raincoat. People waved from their verandas, laughing at the odd Azungu behavior. Some people were out, though they were more in a hurry than the average Malawian ever is.

We finally made it to the beach, took our raincoats off, settled down to some warm coffee, just in time for the rain to stop and the sun to come out. Other people were staying at Mango drift, which was quite surprising. Someone from the Netherlands had quit her job as a social psychologist, an Australian couple was backpacking, and three Swedish electricians were holidaying as well. They spent some time volunteering at three different sites across Southern Africa, putting their skills to good use. Their inspiration? After travelling all the time “There’s only so many perfect beaches you can visit before you want to give back”. They bought a car in South Africa and were driving to Kenya along the coast, and would sell the car there. Bribery is rampant most places they passed, but luckily not in Malawi. In Mozambique they were frequently stopped, but had plenty of cigarettes and half-drunk sodas that they could pay the bribe with.

In one of the many conversations we have with the other teachers one of the teachers asked why all the teachers from America taught Stem courses. Neither of us had really considered this phenomenon before, but upon reflecting we realized that indeed with some small exceptions this seemed to be true. The best answer we came up with was that Social studies, language, and history can very widely from region to region. While you can be pretty sure that Physics, Math and Chemistry will be the same anywhere in the world.

After Malawians did not know about Halloween, did not celebrate Christmas much (Easter is the major holiday), Thanksgiving (of Course) or even st Patricks day , we were surprised at the talk of Valentines day. We aren’t often invited to things, but this time had 3 invites! We went with the first one and had dinner at Ulisa bay. We went early to work on some pottery- Sasha still wants a nice big mug!

We relaxed on the rockier beach, splurged on a glass of wine, then watched the sun go down while eating moon eggs (what one calls deviled eggs in a religious place) and well seasoned dinner. Dessert was the first cheesecake we’ve had in half a year at least. A Likoma Chief dined at one table, while the owners dined at another. It was a very exclusive group!

On our walk back, 3 motorcycles sped towards us, interrupting a peaceful walk. “AHH AZUNGU AZUNGU” the lead one shouted. We were surprised until we saw the pale skin (as pale as one can be after spending 2 decades in the sun) of the millionaire that built all the nice hotels and hostels on the island was bringing a small mob of drunk people to party at Ulisa- perhaps we left too soon!

We spoke with Lackson about teaching us to play Bao, though we could not find a bao board to borrow. Instead, he found someone to make it for us. Sasha came back the next day to a carpenter finishing up the last few circular dips in the board. She sketched something on the outside to be carved as well; he just laughed and said he would bring it to someone in Jalo (the nearby larger town). We received a photo last night of a clumsy carving tracing about half her placed lines, and adding some very unflattering ones. Sasha, ever the artist, decided shoe could probably do a better job herself and wants to go find someone to teach her woodcarving.

On Wednesday, Nkhokota the math teacher had a Birthday. Sasha collected milk in a bag, fresh eggs, some margarine, and oil purchased in an old water bottle. After mixing them all together (with Christina watching closely and whisking away any finished dishes) we baked them. Christina borrowed more cupcake dishes from her mother, and we wished we had more brownie mix to share. As it was everyone that helped had a few (and the ones that stuck) and we were able to bring many up to the school. When Nkhokota got out of class we sang happy Birthday and ate brownies, while eating many brownies!

After class, we all walked to the Kaikho Beach an hours walk away. We blew up the volleyball ball on the way, and bought some sodas. A lodge is there, but no one stays there so we were able to take up the whole beach playing volleyball and swimming. It was a spur of the moment event, so people just swam in work clothing. Ryan was able to wear his swimsuit, and Sasha put leggings and a collared shirt over her bikini. She still had the most risqué outfit. We buried people in the sand, took many many photos, and danced on the beach. The next day, everyone complained extensively of hangovers although there was no alcohol. Perhaps that is just what you say after a party?

Sasha walked by herself down to watch girls netball. On the way, a man staggered by with a gin bottle. She slowed down hoping he would not see her, but no such luck. He almost fell in forward as he tried to move quickly shouting“Azungu!” and reaching for her. She did the usual fist bump and keep walking. He tried to follow shouting “Azungu come back! Azungu I love you!” Students also headed down looked back and at this last comment laughed until they cried. “Madame! Why didn’t you say you love him back?!?” they teased. Stumbling drunks seem simply an accepted part of life. People just ignore them and let them pass out somewhere.

On Tuesday it was extremely rainy, making class very difficult as the steel roofs make it extremely loud inside. A man dressed in a jacket covered in holes and dragging a fish net came into the office and asked for money. The teachers said they had nothing, so slowly he left. He came back a few minutes later, trapped by the rain and still wanting money. Eventually he just sat on a covered bench outside. On Thursday, he wandered into Sasha’s classroom while she was answering some questions. The students were less polite in telling him to leave.

The cats are starting to poop- a lot. All over Ryan’s shoes and on the floor. One peed in the shower. We made a litter box that unfortunately is very rarely used so far. As Sasha cuddled with mtombe as usual, the cat got up in the middle of the night, moved to the middle of the bed, and peed right next to Sasha. It was an aggravating night, with death threats (towards the cat – that Danfer declined to translate) the next day from Christina. We will not be surprised if one day we accidentally have cat for dinner. Ryan made lots of little toys for the kittens which they adore.